the most important fashion trends in a row

If you’ve been following the latest couture shows in Paris mainly on Instagram, as so many people do, you might have seen: German influencer Leonie Hanne on the catwalk Georges Hobeika and Celia Kritharioti. Kim Kardashian, Dua Lipa and Nicole Kidman on the runway Balenciaga. Or the street style of nine-year-old North West, who wore a jacket from her father, Kanye West, among other things.

Anyone satisfied with this glimpse has missed what this week was really about: the high art of sewing, performed by a few very talented people and then appreciated and worn by a few very wealthy people. The essence of what, for the first time in two years, international customers and collectors from all over the world could fly to Paris to spend thousands to hundreds of thousands of euros on exceptional haute couture creations. For the beautiful embroidery at Christian Dior and channels. Or also for the jersey T-shirts with aluminum Balenciaga.

Dior Couture in Autumn/Winter 2022/23: stay tuned

The quieter parades were among the best collections. As is so often the case, the savoir-faire was encountered Christian Dior not just in the creations on the catwalk, but as soon as you step inside the tent in the garden of the Musée Rodin. In this way you dive into the world of an artist with whom Maria Grazia Chiuri worked.

For the setting of haute couture in Autumn/Winter 2022/23, it was Ukrainian artist Olesia Trofymenko, who lives and works in Kiev and whose work combines painting and embroidery. In front of diors she created “The Flow” with the folkloric symbol of the tree of life, not only in Ukraine. A message of hope for the future. Worked for the factory embroideries diors with the Chanakya Ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft in Mumbai. Here students are trained to become master craftsmen. A profession traditionally reserved for men in India.

The Dior show

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After all, both the tree of life and the preservation of savoir-faires were the starting point for the collection. For the handwoven fabrics with fringed edges, the applied lace and finely worked, detailed embroidery. The famous Bar Jacket is first formed using smocking techniques. Christian Dior’s radical “New Look” was once the answer to World War II – with her couture collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri is currently showing hope in people and humanity through craftsmanship that can be viewed for hours. She will eventually reveal herself fully to her owners.

Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022/23 – the collection

The craft to wear: Chanel Haute Couture

“The dresses remain light and feminine, designed to be worn. I can’t imagine doing it any other way,” Virginie Viard explains about her haute couture channels in the coming season. As usual at home, she found her inspiration in Mademoiselle Chanel herself, in suits and long dresses that she designed in the 1930s. Linked with references to the 70s. Finally finished by the craftsmen of the legendary workshops such as reading (embroidery) or Lemarie (Fabric Blossoms), where the layers of a white A-line dress were embroidered with green blossoms of beads and sequins, or an Art Deco pattern was applied to a dress almost like a sparkly print.

The Chanel show

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Chanel Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022/23 – the collection

The future and the past at Balenciaga

Where to go on ‘s couture show Balenciaga get started? The best maybe in the future. In other words, where Demna found the first looks of the house’s 51st couture collection. Black-erased figures that are an evolution of Kim Kardashian’s iconic Met Gala t-shirt look from 2021. Shapes in black neoprene wear vintage watches as earrings and handbags with bluetooth boxes in collaboration with Bang & Olufsen Have originated. The gender cannot be identified. The faces are hidden under masks that, together with the team of Mercedes AMG Formula 1 were executed. The neoprene comes from a Japanese manufacturer that works with a limestone technique. The fabric is Demna’s answer to the silk gazar that Cristobal Balenciaga developed in 1958 with the fabric manufacturer Abrahams.

From the future after Demna, the collection and the show then slowly move to the glamorous past of the 1950s. From tweed dresses, malleable aluminum jersey t-shirts and upcycled jeans to dresses and capes made from silk satin, organza and feathers. With voluptuous and graceful shapes that resemble the great tradition of haute couture. Performed by Kim Kardashian, Dua Lipa, Nicole Kidman and Naomi Campbell, among others.

The Balenciaga Show

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Balenciaga Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022/23 – the collection

The invitation to the show by Balenciaga consisted of a golden needle and a thread, they form the starting point for the seamstresses in the studio. A tribute to the couture process.” It is the almost literal leitmotif of this couture week, which, although it had many stars, jewellery, champagne and parties, ultimately asserted itself through respect for the people in the studios.

The Tribute: Jean Paul Gaultier by Olivier Rousteing

Olivier Rousteing made his guest appearance on Jean Paul Gaultier referred to as “a love letter” to the designer. For two years now, he has opened his couture house to a different designer every season. On Sacaic and Glenn Martens follow for fall/winter 2022/23 Balmain-Designer Olivier Rousteing. With Breton shirts, corsets, references to the famous tattoo collection from 1994 and a reinvention of Madonna’s iconic pinstripe suit from 1992, it’s a clear tribute to Jean Paul Gaultier. However, the collection not only honors the designer, but also his studio. With impressive customization of course, but also with thimbles on gloves and bracelets that look like pincushions.

Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2022/23 – the collection

The Transforming Power of Viktor & Rolf

Bee Victor & Rolf the two designers got their hands on the collection. In the middle of the catwalk, live. The first half of the show featured tailoring with dominant shoulders and hard lines – then Viktor and Rolf changed the silhouette of each of the 23 looks. They removed the aluminum scaffolding that had previously molded blouses, blazers and jackets and laid the clothes into softer shapes. The collection became more feminine and shed a kind of toxic masculinity that never really fit.

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022/23

Maison Margiela Artisanal 2022 – the piece

John Galliano had already stated during the pandemic that after the digital formats, films and documentaries on his collections, he could not imagine returning to a white catwalk. So he didn’t and instead organized for his new craft collection the Maison Margiela the live theater piece “Cinema Inferno” in the Palais de Chaillot, which he had filmed live for (internet) viewers. The play was a kind of neo-western that represented patriarchal abuse of power. On closer inspection, however, the couture techniques Galliano uses to define the collection are even more captivating than the piece: there’s ‘sandstorming’, where a fabric is dusted with sand and worked like a jacquard. “Placage” describes the process of deconstructing one of the two garments and then putting the pieces together on the other side. “Circular cutting” is a specific way to interrupt drape.

The show of Maison Margiela

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shocking! Schiaparelli .’s legacy and future

Daniel Roseberry is in his role as creative director of the revived couture house Schiaparelli managed to continue not only the name, but also the humor of the house. For the autumn/winter 2022/23 collection, he was not directly inspired by the house’s archive, which is ‘Shocking! The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli” in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, but from the dialogue with people who found their inspiration in Schiaparelli himself. One of them is Christian Lacroix, whose 80s opulence is reflected in the collection with broad shoulders, puffed skirts and lavish decor.

SCHIAPARELLI Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022/23

The Schiaparelli show

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Think Pink – like Barbie, Giambattista Valli and Giorgio Armani

When you see a lot of pink at once, you might think of Kay Thompson in A Sweet Face or the recent opening frames of Greta Gerwig’s Barbie movie starring Margot Robbie and Ryan Gosling. In any case, the color pink has proven itself as a minor fashion trend in haute couture. For example Giambattista Vallicwhich is celebrating its tenth year on the Fall/Winter 2022/23 couture calendar.

Giambattista Vallic’s show

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Giambattista Valli Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022/23

Or Giorgio Armani, who called his Private Collection ‘Petillant’, which can be translated as ‘Sparkling’. His collection shone with a charm that the designer otherwise lacks today – with embroidered jackets and flowing trousers, which he always masters like no other. Right in the middle there was a pink parade of ruffles, beads and sequins. After the show, he said of the collection: “Some people may not like it, but I make Private for myself. Ready-to-wear is for everyone.” Today, July 11, Armani celebrates his 88th birthday.

The Armani Private Show

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Armani Private Fall/Winter 2022/23

Discover more Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022/23 collections

Iris Van Herpen

Iris Van Herpen

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Elie Saab

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fendic

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Valentino

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