dThe new government elected in Italy on Sunday failed to motivate the designers to deliver political messages. Business is probably going too well – the city’s designer boutiques were busy on weekends. It was better to attract attention with surprising star performances and extreme footwear. There were a few more thoughtful moments.
Kim likes it
Days earlier, it was announced on Instagram that Dolce & Gabbana and Kim Kardashian had hatched something together for the brand’s runway show. Of course, on the day of the show, hundreds of fans blocked the street in front of the Metropol Theater. The excitement only increased during the show when a black-and-white film showed Kim Kardashian pasta as the models showcased the new collection and mom Kris and sister Khloé sat in the front row with the kids.
Kim appeared alone on the runway for the final, along with Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce. As ‘curator’ of the show, the star has selected some favorite designs from the brand’s archive to be reintroduced into the collection.
Paris in Milan
And then there was Paris Hilton, Kim Kardashian’s on-and-off girlfriend and enabler (“I would do anything for her. She literally gave me a career”). Hilton married entrepreneur Carter Reum last November. The celebrations lasted three days and she wore a pink wedding dress to a party. Now she closed the show at Versace as a Barbie bride in a pink glitter dress and with a short veil. Less striding, but marching at a full stride and with the casual, voluptuous open mouth. The guests were thrilled! Donatella Versace had made some star appearances during her last shows. Jennifer Lopez, Dua Lipa, Lourdes Leon (Madonna’s daughter). Hilton may not quite live up to its predecessors, but still: It’s hot!
Higher and higher
Many labels are done with the sneaker craze and hardly show sneakers on the catwalk anymore. Instead, ultra-high platform shoes dominated. At Max Mara these appeared in the form of strappy sandals, at Versace the boots were reminiscent of earlier Spice Girl looks, Etro combined socks with ultra-high clogs and at Fendi the models wore grass green platform mules. Some didn’t get very far with it: at one point a model just took off his shoes.
Like in the movie
Special set designs are always part of it, especially with large luxury brands. Prada has done a particularly good job setting the mood this season. Although it was admittedly a bit dark: together with director Nicolas Winding Refn, who is behind thrillers such as “Drive” and “Neon Demon”, a show space was designed that was divided into several dark rooms. The guests sat on cardboard boxes, through windows in the walls you could look at screens playing short videos of Refn.
Bottega Veneta was in a slightly better mood. Italian architect and designer Gaetano Pesce designed the ultra-coloured catwalk and the matching chairs.
While Instagram faves Gigi and Bella Hadid only appeared in Milan a few times (Kendall Jenner was nowhere to be seen), models from a different generation showed up all the more. Naomi Campbell performed at Boss and Tod’s, on the latter label alongside Carla Bruni. Bruni usually stays away from the catwalk, as does Kate Moss. That she ended up running for Bottega Veneta caused a lot of excitement – and plenty of Instagram posts.
Gucci in the doubles
Alessandro Michele says he grew up with two mothers: Mama Eralda and Mama Giuliana. They were inseparable, so they not only lived in the same house, but also did everything together. Eralda and Giuliana were twins. “One multiplied the other. That was my world, duplicated and doubly perfect,” says Michele. But when he was seven years old, his aunt died. “Day after day I waited for my other mother to come back. One of the two had disappeared, but no one told me. me that my aunt was not my mother.” He has been fascinated with twins ever since. So much for the inspiration behind Gucci’s new Twinsburg collection. The question is how you translate something like that to textiles and the show that goes with it.
Last Friday afternoon, the Gucci crowd took their seats in front of a wall covered in pictures of twins. The voice of singer and actress Marianne Faithfull sounded right from the start: “Opposite, different”, she repeated several times. Then the show started: further cleaner, with more focus on shape and color. Accurately tailored jackets, suits and a bright red coat. These are the typical looks with a lot of embellishment: a purple eighties dress with leo tights and python boots, tracksuits with mesh patchwork inserts, lots of ruffles, silk and sequins. Some models wore Gremlin stuffed animals, the fantasy creatures from the 1984 movie of the same name that can be devils or angels. You know this crazy mix by Alessandro Michele: he likes to mix the most diverse influences into one big whole. At the time, however, no one was torn from his seat. And now?
The wall with the twin photos was raised and one looked into a mirror-inverted room. The audience also sat opposite and models walked: they were the twins of the models walking past you, in identical looks. So all the time there were two shows at the same time. For the grand finale, the twins finally reunited on the catwalk, walking hand in hand. Looking at this photo in this day and age inevitably brings to mind people who are separated and find each other again. Of coherence. The audience was moved, many a guest had tears in their eyes. Also Alessandro Michele: “If we are more, we are stronger,” he said at a press conference after the show. And what about the gremlins? “Small animals that can get angry, but also multiply in good.”