Actually, London Fashion Week should be back in top shape after Corona and Brexit. Then the queen dies, everything has to be canceled – but the designers decide: now more than ever.
To put it politely, British fashion has not seen its best years. Paris is increasingly becoming the absolute epicenter of fashion. London may have the best fashion schools spawning new talent, but Milan and New York are home to much bigger names that attract a lot more attention. Then came Brexit, which brought designers a lot of trouble, paperwork and higher fees. Finally a pandemic where the shows were occasionally held digitally only.
But this season, London should finally be celebrating its big comeback. Burberry, the country’s powerhouse, would finally be back in action after a two-year absence, Belgian Raf Simons would bring extra glamor and Jonathan Anderson, who briefly flirted with Milan with his label JW Anderson, was back too. Then the queen dies – and the whole country goes into shock.
Burberry, who as a purveyor is almost obliged to do this, cancels his show immediately. Shortly after, Raf Simons and with him canceled a large number of announced visitors. Who wants (or should) talk about dresses, models and front row when half the nation mourns the Queen? Show deaf, anyone?
What follows should be presented as a cloak-and-dagger operation: In a hastily convened zoom call with the British Fashion Council, the remaining designers decide to go ahead with fashion week, ostensibly as a corporate event for editors and buyers, without parties, social media and street style poses in front of the door. All scheduled performances on the day of the funeral will be moved to the other days in the short term. The labels, some of which are still small, have already invested too much work, passion and above all money. They simply cannot afford not to show at all. And as one designer put it backstage: “Wasn’t the Queen herself Mrs. ‘keep calm and carry on’…?”
Tribute to the Queen
It wasn’t as fun and committed as feared, taking pictures, posing and posting is now part of the viewing ritual, people can’t help but constantly pull out their phones. But ironically, without the mega-brands and mega-celebrities, this time London was actually more about the collections themselves, which isn’t the worst side effect from a purely fashion standpoint. It was a historic fashion week with the fashion public in between Operation London Bridge and the row anyway, many designers also paid their respects to the queen in their shows.
For example, David W Fletcher, who opened Fashion Week Thursday, began the parade with a minute’s silence, and SS Daley’s Steven Stokey-Daley, whose shows are somewhat theatrical, first sent a procession of models clad in black with candles over the top. catwalk.
At JW Anderson, the last model wore a black T-shirt that read, “Her Majesty The Queen, 1926 -2022. Thank you.” Nensi Dojaka’s models kept sprigs of lily of the valley, one of the queen’s favorite flowers, for the final.
That’s not the only reason why her collection was one of the most acclaimed collections for next spring. Albanian born Dojaka is one of the most exciting young talents in fashion. With her lingerie-inspired dresses and tops, bra cups with different crossover straps and cutouts, she won the prestigious LVMH award in 2021 and set one of the biggest trends of the past summer.
But if everyone copies you, you have to do something new yourself as soon as possible. Dojaka sticks to her sexy signature, but increasingly skilfully incorporates her lingerie elements into tailoring and plays with new materials. Wherever she remains herself, being sexy knows no physical limits for her. She always shows off her clean, cut-out designs on curvy models.
Various body images
In general, the catwalks in London represent the most diverse body image in comparison. It goes without saying that almost every label shows plus size models – increasingly also for men. SS Daley, who received the LVMH award in 2022, isn’t an asparagus himself, so why show his designs, which are somewhere between Sailor and Boy Scout dandy, only on sinewy models? If the look sounds familiar, Harry Styles often wears his baggy pants and patterned sweater.
Even some of the established Londoners have found their way back after the turbulent last seasons. The Turkish-English designer Dilara Findikoglu was once called the “talent of the future” by Lady Gaga. Her Victorian streetwear may be too morbid for the masses’ taste, in fact her intrepid mix of ruffles, corsages and heavy metal T-shirts is sometimes reminiscent of the young Alexander McQueen.
Erdem Moralioglu said backstage that it was good to finally be able to work more or less normally. He showed at the British Museum, in whose archive and restoration studio he also found inspiration for his collection: such as cobweb-covered, frayed tulle dresses, bustier dresses with wide, lined skirts and prints of old masters. His business should be very healthy, there are just a lot of rich girls and women in this world who dream of wearing one of these dresses.
Christopher Kane, who had not shown the previous seasons at all, once again played with his favorite motifs side and kink. Silk skirts with vests with vinyl closures, dresses with plastic harnesses, dresses sometimes completely covered in plastic, somewhere between punk, perversity and psycho.
Jonathan Anderson, currently by far the most successful Briton, invited his guests to a gambling hall in Soho. The hassle started with these nowadays almost harmless vending machines, nowadays they are all glued to some screen around the clock. The result is a dress like a giant pinball machine, T-shirts covered in the keys of a computer keyboard, palm tree print murals for sale online for £1. Anderson’s approach is always very current, definitely creative, this time maybe a little too gimmicky .
With her very own aesthetic, Simone Rocha has amassed a huge following that has been asking for a menswear collection for a long time and will be getting it for the first time this fall next fall. It can be reserved immediately at Dover Street Market.
Rocha was featured in the Old Bailey, London’s famous Criminal Court, where Oscar Wilde was convicted. The word “Learn” is in the dome, and with all the madness and injustice in the world, it would actually be nice if the world could learn something new every now and then. In any case, in this city, despite everything, she is always creative.